Cape Brett Lighthouse Track Guide: Difficulty, Hut, Route + My Tips

The Cape Brett Lighthouse Track is one of the best overnight hikes in Northland.

It is also one of those walks that looks friendlier on paper than it feels with a pack on.

Lighthouse at the end. Hut by the sea. One track in, one track out.

Easy enough, right?

Not quite. The track is long, exposed, up-and-down, and logistically a little annoying. You need to book the hut, sort the private-land permit, understand the current access situation near Oke Bay Lodge, and take water seriously.

I have done Cape Brett twice now, once before the hut renovation and once after. I still rate it very highly. The second visit was better too: improved toilets, a much better water setup, and a proper lick of paint throughout the hut.

This is how I would think about the hike now.

The Short Version

Cape Brett is a hard but excellent two-day hike. Do the full Rawhiti / Oke Bay Lodge route if you want the proper experience, use Deep Water Cove if you want the shorter version, and treat the hut, permit, access and water details as part of the trip.

DOC lists the full track as 16.3 km one way and around 8 hours. That is a fair warning, but the distance is not really the problem. It is the repeated climbing and dropping, the exposed ridges, the Northland heat, and the fact you walk back out the next day on the same legs you already used.

The shorter version is to use a water taxi to Deep Water Cove, then walk the final section to Cape Brett Hut. You still get the lighthouse, the hut and the best coastal drama near the end, but you skip the long private-land section from Rawhiti.

For the full route, budget for two separate costs: the hut booking and the private-land walkway permit. As of the current DOC information, Cape Brett Hut is $25 per adult per night and $12.50 per youth until 30 June 2026. The Rawhiti to Deep Water Cove permit is $50 per adult and $20 per child/youth. There is no charge for the public conservation land section between Deep Water Cove and Cape Brett.

Water is much better than it was on my first visit, but I would still bring treatment. DOC now says drinking water is provided at the hut, while the track page still warns that water quality cannot be guaranteed in summer and recommends carrying a way to treat it.

Question	My answer
Best overall route	Full Rawhiti / Oke Bay Lodge out-and-back
Easier version	Water taxi to Deep Water Cove, then walk to the hut
Difficulty	Hard, but not technical
Best for	Fit hikers who want a proper Northland overnight tramp
Biggest mistake	Underestimating heat, water and the return walk
Best side quest	Deep Water Cove swim, if the weather behaves

Heads up: The start of the track has been caught up in a public access dispute. When I did Cape Brett, the track started behind Oke Bay Lodge and did not involve walking down to Oke Bay itself. The Northern Advocate has covered a diverted start after disagreement around the old private-land access near Oke Bay Lodge. Practical version: check DOC and Cape Brett Walkways before you go, follow the marked route on the day, and be clear whether you are paying for parking, the walkway permit, or both.

Before You Start

The usual Cape Brett plan is simple: drive or get dropped near Rawhiti, start behind Oke Bay Lodge, walk to Cape Brett Hut, stay the night, then walk back out the same way.

Simple, in the way hiking admin is always simple until you forget one tiny thing and suddenly everyone is standing beside the car looking at each other.

Book the hut first. DOC says the hut has 23 bunks, mattresses, gas cooking facilities, non-flush toilets and drinking water. It must be booked online in advance, and DOC sends the access code in your booking confirmation. No spaces are held for walk-ins.

If you are walking the full route from Rawhiti / Oke Bay Lodge, you also need the private-land walkway permit for the Rawhiti to Deep Water Cove section. Parking is separate again. DOC lists small-fee parking options at Julie Witehira / 253 Rawhiti Road, Oke Bay Lodge / 147 Rawhiti Road, Kaingahoa Marae / 243 Rawhiti Road, and Hartwells at Kaimarama Bay.

The access situation around Oke Bay Lodge is the part to watch. The first few hundred metres of the old route crossed private land near the lodge, and the dispute has involved Oke Bay Lodge owner Julian Batchelor, Cape Brett Walkways and DOC’s permit system. There is no need to turn your hike into a local-government investigation, but do check the current DOC notes before you go and follow the marked route on the day.

If you are coming from Auckland, I would stay around Russell or Paihia the night before rather than driving up and starting late. Russell is closer to Rawhiti, while Paihia has more accommodation and transport options. Booking.com is useful for a simple pre-hike base, and Discover Cars makes sense if you are flying into Auckland and building a Northland road trip around this.

Day 1: Rawhiti / Oke Bay Lodge to Deep Water Cove

The first part of Cape Brett does not instantly throw the big lighthouse scenery at you. It starts more quietly: private land, bush, ridges, bits of farmland, and enough climbing to remind you that this is not a beach walk with a novelty lighthouse attached.

That slower start is part of why I like doing the full route. You feel the peninsula changing as you walk further out. The bush opens, the water starts appearing in pieces, the ridges get drier and more exposed, and suddenly the Bay of Islands feels a lot wilder than it does from a ferry or a cafe in Paihia.

It is not technical, but it is tiring. The track beats you by accumulation: climb, dip, sidle, ridge, sun, repeat. On a hot day, the exposed sections are the bit to respect. Start early, keep drinking, and do not carry half your wardrobe for one hut night.

The full route is the better experience, but only if you actually want a hard overnight hike.

If that does not sound appealing, use Deep Water Cove as the shortcut. No shame. Better to enjoy the trip than spend two days proving a point to absolutely no one.

Side Quest: Deep Water Cove

Deep Water Cove is where the route starts feeling properly special.

If you are walking the full track, this is the obvious place to stop, swim, eat something, and reset before the final push to the hut. If you are doing the shorter version, this is probably where your water taxi drops you before you walk the final 4.4 km / 2.5 hours to Cape Brett Hut.

Pack togs and goggles if the forecast is calm. The water can be annoyingly clear, in the way that makes you feel personally attacked for not bringing a snorkel.

This is also where the easier Cape Brett option makes the most sense. You skip the long private-land approach but still get the best bit: the remote end of the peninsula, the lighthouse, the hut, and the swim spots. If you are travelling with less experienced hikers, short on time, or just not keen on the full out-and-back, this is the version I would pick.

Just be careful with water taxis. They are weather dependent, and the Bay of Islands does not care how neat your itinerary looks on your phone.

Day 1: Deep Water Cove to Cape Brett Hut

The section after Deep Water Cove is the dramatic part.

The track gets more exposed, the cliffs feel sharper, and the lighthouse end of the peninsula starts to pull you forward. This is the part I remember most clearly from both trips. You have already done plenty of work, but the scenery suddenly starts paying you back properly.

There are steep drop-offs around here, so this is not where I would wander around half-focused, especially if the wind is up. It is still a track, not a scramble, but you want your head switched on.

Eventually you come out near the old lighthouse settlement, with the hut tucked into one of the best positions of any DOC hut I have stayed in. Sea on both sides, lighthouse nearby, and that end-of-the-peninsula feeling that makes the whole walk make sense.

Was I tired by then? Obviously.

Was it worth it? Also yes.

Cape Brett Hut: Sunset, Swimming and the Tiny Back Room

Cape Brett Hut is the old lighthouse keeper’s house, which is half the magic of staying there. The seven-week, $290,000 DOC restoration did not turn it into a luxury lodge, which is good. It still feels like the old lighthouse keeper’s house, just less tired.

Having stayed there before and after the renovation, the difference is obvious. The toilets are better, the water setup has improved, and the whole place feels fresher without losing the slightly weather-beaten character that makes it cool.

There is also a cute little back room with two beds. If you are one of the first groups there, you might be able to nab it and pretend you accidentally booked private accommodation. Very fancy. Almost a hotel, if you ignore the part where you carried your dinner there on your back.

For sunset, I would wander around the lighthouse settlement rather than sit inside too early. The light over the water and cliffs is the whole point of staying out here. For sunrise, you do not need to overthink it. Get up, walk outside the hut or toward the lighthouse, and let Cape Brett do its thing.

You can swim from the hut too. Follow the old tramline down toward the ocean and enter from the old concrete jetty. In calm conditions, it is a brilliant way to finish the day. In a big swell, absolutely do not be silly about it. This is exposed coastline, not a resort pool with a cocktail menu.

The water situation is better now, but I would still treat it. DOC’s hut page says drinking water is provided, while the track page says tap water is not treated and should be boiled before use. It also warns that quality cannot be guaranteed in summer. Carry enough for the walk, then treat or boil anything you use at the hut.

Tip: The hut has gas cooking facilities, but bring your own food, sleeping bag, headlamp, battery bank, hut clothes, and something to treat water. Also pack out all rubbish, including food scraps. Hut glamour, naturally.

Day 2: Walking Back Out

The return walk is where Cape Brett quietly checks your attitude.

You have already seen the lighthouse, swum if the sea behaved, watched the light do nice things, slept in the hut, and taken the photos. Then you turn around and walk the same ridges back.

This is why I keep banging on about pack weight and water. Day 2 is not technically harder, but mentally it can feel longer because the obvious prize is behind you. The track still climbs and drops, the sun still exists, and your legs may have developed opinions overnight.

I would start early again, especially in summer. The cooler hours help, and getting back to the car with time spare is far nicer than spending the afternoon pretending everyone is still having fun.

If you walked one way and arranged a boat the other, this is where that decision starts looking very clever. Just make sure it is properly confirmed before the trip. A water taxi plan based on hope is not a plan, it is just vibes with a pickup time.

What I Would Pack

You do not need anything exotic for Cape Brett, but you do need normal overnight tramping gear and a bit of restraint.

My pack was an Osprey Atmos 65L, which was more than enough for one night. In dry conditions I would happily wear trail shoes again. I used Altra Lone Peaks, which suited the rocky, hot, uneven track well. DOC recommends tramping or hiking boots, especially in wet conditions, so use your judgement and the forecast.

For clothing, I like a merino base layer. An Icebreaker BodyFit-style layer gives sun protection, handles sweat better than cotton, and still works when the temperature drops at the hut. Add a rain jacket, hat, sunglasses and sunscreen. Northland can look friendly while quietly cooking you.

I would also bring a Black Diamond Spot headlamp or similar, a small battery bank, first aid basics, togs, goggles, and water purification tablets or a filter. Deep Water Cove and the concrete jetty below the hut are both much better when you have actually packed for swimming.

My short version:

• Start early both days
• Keep your pack lean
• Carry enough water and treat hut water
• Check current access notes before you leave
• Book the hut and walkway permit separately
• Pack a snorkel if the sea forecast looks calm
• Use proper parking, because cheap stress removal is still stress removal

Final Thoughts

I would do Cape Brett again.

Not because it is easy, and not because the admin is especially charming, but because the place delivers. The ridgeline, Deep Water Cove, the final push to the lighthouse, the hut, the swim below the old tramline, and the sunrise from the end of the peninsula all add up to something much better than a standard coastal walk.

The full route is the one I would pick for the proper experience. Deep Water Cove is the one I would pick for a shorter, smarter, still-beautiful version.

Either way, go prepared and give it the time it deserves.

FAQ

How long does the Cape Brett Track take?

DOC lists the full track as 16.3 km one way and around 8 hours. Most people do it as a two-day, one-night hike staying at Cape Brett Hut.

How hard is the Cape Brett Track?

Hard, but not technical. The difficulty comes from the long day, repeated climbs and descents, exposed ridges, heat, rocky sections, water planning and the return walk. Fit hikers should be fine; beginners should consider the Deep Water Cove version.

Can you do Cape Brett as a day hike?

Yes, but I would not make that the default plan. A full out-and-back is a very long day. For a shorter day version, use a water taxi to or from Deep Water Cove.

Do you need to book Cape Brett Hut?

Yes. The hut must be booked online in advance, and no spaces are held for walk-ins.

How much does Cape Brett cost?

To 30 June 2026, Cape Brett Hut is $25 per adult per night and $12.50 per youth. The Rawhiti to Deep Water Cove walkway permit is separate: $50 adult, $20 child/youth, free for infants. Check DOC before booking, because prices and booking rules can change.

Is there water at Cape Brett Hut?

DOC says drinking water is provided at the hut, and from my second visit the water situation was much better than before the renovation. The track page still says tap water is not treated and water quality cannot be guaranteed in summer, so I would carry enough for the walk and treat anything you use at the hut.

Where should I stay before the hike?

Russell and Paihia are the easiest bases. Russell is closer to Rawhiti, while Paihia has more accommodation and transport options. I would stay nearby the night before rather than driving from Auckland and starting late.