Is Kashmir Safe To Visit? My Experience + Current Advice
Kashmir felt safer and more welcoming than anywhere else I visited in India. Here is how that experience fits with today’s Level 4 warning, plus how I would spend two weeks there.

Kashmir felt safer and more welcoming than anywhere else I visited in India. Here is how that experience fits with today’s Level 4 warning, plus how I would spend two weeks there.

My two-day Tulian Lake trek from Pahalgam, including the real route, difficulty, current Kashmir warning, guide recommendation and what I would pack.

My practical guide to travelling from Srinagar to Leh by road, including current taxi costs, a Lamayuru overnight and the monastery stops worth making.

The 7 restaurants in Panjim that are actually worth your time – from Bombil’s lunch-only Goan thali (the best I’ve ever eaten) to Cafe Tato’s 1913 patal bhaji and the wood-fired bakery that’s been running since 1930. Updated 2026.

The current Ladakh permit rules for Indian and foreign travellers, including the green fee, PAP process, restricted circuits and what I learned getting mine.

My guide to renting a motorcycle in Leh, including current prices, local rental rules, which companies I would use and what to check before riding into Ladakh.