Kumano Kodo vs Nakasendo Way (What Hike Is Best For You?)
Having hiked two of Japan’s trails legendary trails, I understand the struggle of choosing the perfect one.
The Kumano Kodo, perhaps the more famous trail steeped in ancient spirituality, nature, and Shinto culture – or the historical Nakasendo Way showcasing Japan’s feudal-era history and heritage.
Before I go into further details about each of these, here’s a glimpse of what you can expect:
Table of Contents
Kumano Kodo | Nahakechi Route
- Approx. 70 km (43 miles) across 4 days
- ~2,800 m (9,186 ft) total across multiple climbs
- 4 days, hiking 15–20 km daily
- Ancient Pilgrimage with trails over 1000 years old
- Demanding Terrain: Uneven paths, steep ascents/descents, dense forests.
- Remote Beauty: Breathtaking scenery, waterfalls
- Spiritual journey to the Grand Shrines and visiting temples
- Connection to rural Japanese culture
- Focus on ancient spirituality, nature, and Shinto culture
Nakasendo Way | Magome to Narai
- Approx. 70 km (43 miles) across 4–5 days
- ~1,800 m (5,905 ft) total
- 4–5 days, hiking 12–18 km daily
- Historical Route covering Edo Period travel, merchant paths, and ancient architecture.
- Moderate Terrain: Gentle paths through forests and the countryside.
- Cultural Focus via preserved post towns
- To truly experience the authenticity of the country, you’ll stay in ryokans or minshukus.
- Focus on Japan’s feudal-era history and heritage
My Take: The key issue I took with the Nakasendo Way is that it’s not a contiguous hike. Most days you will need to bus or train to the hiking section and on to your accomadtion. This is fine (and they make it very straight forward) but doesn’t feel as immersive as the Kumano Kodo where you walk the entire trail in one go
The Kumano Kodo
The Kumano Kodo is a far older path system with a network of ancient pilgrimage routes that date back well over 1000 years. Upon interacting with locals, I discovered some origins stretch to the 6th century.
The highlights are three sacred Grand Shrines: the Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Nachi Taisha, and Kumano Hayatama Taisha. The journey held (and still holds) deep spiritual significance in Shinto and Buddhist traditions.
There are 3 alternate routes, the Nakahechi (imperial) route, Kochi (mountain) route, or Iseji (costal) route. By far the most popular is the 4-6 day Nakaheci from Tanabe / Takajiri though to Nachi Falls and Kii Katsuura.
Nakahechi Route Highlights
This multi-day hike includes stunning mountain passes, sacred shrines, and breathtaking natural beauty:
Day 1: Takijiri-oji to Takahara (4 km)
Begin your journey at Takijiri-oji Shrine, the gateway to Kumano Kodo. Hike through steep forest trails and arrive at the picturesque “Village in the Mist,” Takahara, with sweeping mountain views.
Day 2: Takahara to Chikatsuyu (10 km)
Traverse lush forests, rice terraces, and quiet hamlets. Stop by historic sites like Osaka-no-seki before reaching the charming village of Chikatsuyu for an overnight stay.
Day 3: Chikatsuyu to Nonaka (13–16 km)
Pass through ancient cedar forests and visit Tsugizakura-oji Shrine, surrounded by towering trees over a thousand years old. Stay near Nonaka or closer to Hongu Taisha.
Day 4: Nonaka to Kumano Hongu Taisha (12 km)
Walk through serene stone paths and forest trails to reach Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the Three Grand Shrines. Explore Oyunohara Torii, the largest torii gate in Japan.
Day 5: Kumano Hongu Taisha to Koguchi (14 km)
Hike the remote Kogumotori-goe Pass, a challenging but rewarding section with panoramic ridge views. End the day in the peaceful village of Koguchi.
Day 6: Koguchi to Nachi Falls (15 km)
Tackle the rugged Ogumotori-goe Pass before arriving at Nachi Falls, Japan’s tallest waterfall. Visit Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine and marvel at the iconic red pagoda with stunning views of the falls.
Terrain
This path puts your fitness to the test. Even though I was expecting a mix of uneven cobblestone paths, mossy sections filled with tree roots, and steep stone steps, I underestimated its relentless nature. And that’s despite intensive training beforehand!
There were dense forests with stretches in dark and wet, slippery conditions. Followed by endless ascents and descents.
The trail can be a buggy environment, especially in the summer months. I soon learned that insect repellent is a must-pack item.
Be prepared for unpredictable weather conditions as well. While I went in autumn, I encountered several days of rain.
Difficulty
As mentioned, this hike is a commitment to physical challenge. While there are options for shorter and gentler routes, like the Kohechi and Omine Okugakemichi, Nakadechi demands good fitness levels. You’ll also need to be resilient enough to handle long days of hiking over complex terrain.
The Nakasendo Way
The Nakasendo Way embodies the flow of life during Japan’s Edo Period (1603-1868). This network of roads and post towns served as a lifeline for trade and travel during the shogunate era.
The complete Way is 530km however very few people walk the entire route. Most tackle a shorter 5 day section from Magome to Narai though you can do day hikes or choose your own adventure.
Magome to Narai Route Overview
Compared to Kumano Kodo, this trek has a deep cultural focus. It offers a window into Japan’s past with its meticulously preserved post towns designed to offer weary travelers rest and sustenance. You’ll have a chance to experience traditional architecture and might even get a glimpse of the rhythms of a slower-paced life.
Day 1: Magome to Tsumago (8 km)
- Explore cobblestone paths, quaint inns, rural landscapes, and forests.
- This is a gentle section and one of the most famous parts of the Nakasendo Way.
Day 2: Tsumago to Nojiri (18 km)
- Takes you through quiet mountain trails and provides stunning views of the countryside.
- May involve steady ascents and descents but remains manageable for most hikers.
Day 3: Nojiri to Kiso-Fukushima (14 km)
- A mix of forested trails and open valleys. Kiso-Fukushima is a larger town with traditional ryokans and onsens where hikers often stay overnight.
Day 4: Kiso-Fukushima to Yabuhara (16 km)
- This section includes Torii Pass, one of the steeper climbs along the trail, but hikers are rewarded with spectacular views.
Day 5: Yabuhara to Narai (12 km)
- Narai is known as the “Town of a Thousand Houses” for its exceptionally well-preserved Edo-period buildings. It’s a wonderful place to end the journey.
In a nutshell: it’s a fantastic way to learn how travel and commerce shaped Japanese society.
Opinion: While the trail is charming with a balance of history and nature, some parts were a little too touristy for my liking. Some sections are too close to roads and occasional crowds.
Terrain
The Nakasendo Way is much more forgiving than the Kumano Kodo. The entire track stretches around 534 km, but I focused on the section between Magome and Tsumago in the Kiso Valley. I walked through gentle forests and rural landscapes, with minimal steep sections.
If you’re into moderate hikes that allow you to focus on and appreciate the details of the surrounding environment, this hike will appeal to you.
Highlights
- Charming post towns like Magome and Tsumago with traditional inns and local cuisine.
- Historical and architectural sights.
- Accessibility via Public Transport: The trail is remarkably accessible. You can easily reach various sections by train or bus from major cities.
Accommodation and Services
Both hikes offer a mix of accommodation options to suit different budgets and preferences. You’ll find everything from rustic minshuku to luxurious ryokans. As a bonus, most lodgings offer luggage forwarding services. I had to hike with just a daypack while my bigger luggage was transported to my next stop. A lifesaver on those longer walking days!
Though not glaring, there were some differences between these two.
Kumano Kodo
I found stays that deepened the sense of being off the beaten path. There was a more rustic vibe in smaller villages, sometimes with shared bathrooms and traditional Japanese bathing setups. I absolutely loved one minshuku run by the friendliest older couple! Even with the language barrier, they made us feel so welcome, and the home-cooked meals were amazing.
In certain areas, you can even stay in shukubo (temple lodgings), adding a spiritual dimension.
Nakasendo Way
Accommodations on the Nakasendo have a focus on historic preservation. Expect more amenities along the Nakasendo route, like small shops and restaurants within easier reach.
Final Word and Recommendations
The “best” hike depends entirely on your individual needs and interests. But experience has proven that these popular trails uncover unique aspects of Japan’s landscape, history, and culture.
If you have the opportunity, I highly recommend embarking on both. This gives you a chance to fully appreciate the diverse beauty and cultural depth they offer.
Who knows, they might leave you wanting to explore even more of Japan’s hiking trails?
Japan Travel Planning Cheatsheet 🇹🇿
🚑 Should I buy travel insurance for Japan?
100% YES! — Japan has “free” healthcare but it’s only for citizens! Tourists need travel insurance in case anything happens on your visit. Also be aware many policies won’t cover hiking as it’s a high risk activity! (that’s right, check the t&c’s on your complimentary credit card insurance)
I highly recommend World Nomads as you can get specific add-ons for the crazy activities you’re doing – and starts at just $7 a day!
🏩 What’s the best way to book my Kumano Kodo accommodation?
Your only realy two options here are Kumano Travel and Booking.com. Its a complicated process so I wrote this guide here on the best kumano kodo accomodation options
If you don’t want to figure it all out (it’s meant to be a holiday after all) you can book a package tour. Here are my recommendations for both guided and self-guided.
💸How do you pay for things in Japan?
Japan may have flying robots.. but they also still use cash! So you’ll want to get some folding tender out from an ATM when you land. EFTPOS / Debit / Credit Card and Paywave (contactless payments) is common at bigger businesses but small bars, and street vendors want cash.
I personally use a Wise debit card for all my international money needs as they only convert the funds when you make payment, plus they offer a much better spread (margin on the true exhange rate) than the banks do. They work in all Japanese ATMs I tried.
🚙 Do you need to rent a car in Japan?
I wouldn’t reccommend it — Transport in Japan is expensive whatever mode you chose, but fortunalty the publc transport system is out of this world in terms of both freqency and coverage. If you are heading to a lot of off the beaten track places, then you may want a rental. I use Discover Cars to find the cheapest rates on rentals cars and remember you can save money if you avoid picking up at the airport.
🚆 What about the JR Rail Pass?
We didn’t – but it depends on the length and itenirary of your trip. The JR Pass is expensive (and just went up in price again!) and if you’re walking the Kumano Kodo you wont need it for probably 6 days straight anyway.
Do the math, but in most cases buying the train fares you need, when you need it will work out more afforably overall – and give you more flexibility (as the JR Pass doesn’t cover all lines)
📲 How do I get internet/data/wifi in Japan and on the trail?
This one needs a whole nother article, but the short version is;
- local SIM cards are cheaper but generally require a fixed term contract (not practical for people visiting)
- Tourist ‘short stay’ SIMs are a bit more expensive but will give you plenty of data while your visiting and are best for solo travelllers.
- If you’re travelling as 2 or more people, renting a pocket WIFI unit from the airport is the most economical option – Works out cheaper than getting two tourists sims
- Use a travel eSIM like Saily or Airalo. This works from the moment you land is is SOOOOO much easier than trying to pick a data pack in japanese. It also gives you connectivity across neighbouring asian countries if you buy a regional sim! TIP: I used to use Airalo but now find Saily a much better product – you can get 5% off with code SPECIAL5
✈️ What’s the best site to buy flights to Japan?
For finding cheap flights, I recommend Skyscanner. Once you find the flight you’re looking for, I’d then suggest booking directly with the carrier (even if it costs a few $$ more than with one of the agreggators/agencies).
💧Can you drink the water on the Kumano Kodo?
Yes — Japan is very clean. In all townships you’ll pass through and stay along the Kumano Kodo the tap water is drinkable. If you want to drink water from the rivers and streams you generally can but should do so at your own risk. ALWAYS follow best practice and drink from fast flowing water as far up stream as possible. I drank the water and was fine.. but i’d generally recommend a Brita Water Bottle for rehydrating on the trail safely.
🎫 Do I need a visa for Japan?
Likely Not — Japan now recognises 70 countries as ‘visa exempt’ for short term stay. So if you’re a US, UK, NZ, AU and EU passport holder you don’t need a Japansese visas. However, some other countries do (check here!). And if you plan to stay for more than 90 days (an average tourist visa length), you will need to look into the Japanese working holiday visa scheme, or the new Digital Nomad visa scheme.
