Te Paki Coastal Track | Full Guide + Photos!
Heads up! Parts of this track are currently closed. Get an up-to-date status from the DOC Website here
If you are looking for a stunning adventure in the winterless north, I highly recommend the Te Paki Coastal Track. This 3-5 day tramp takes you along 48km through the most diverse landscapes Te Tai Tokerau has to offer.
Te Paki trail weaves across pristine beaches, towering sand dunes, and martian landcapes, and right past the iconic Cape Reinga Lighthouse. But on top of that, the hike is also culturally and historically rich.
In terms of scenery, I fully believe this is a Great Walk level hike – Its just the facilities (lack of lodging to be precise) that lets it down.
In this post, I’ll share everything you need to know about hiking the track and show you some of the amazing photos I took during the hike.
Table of Contents
Key Takeaways
Why I Recommend Hiking The Te Paki Trail
I can’t stress enough the beauty of this trail. It completely exceeded my expectations!
It’s filled with spectacular landscapes while providing a rich cultural and historical experience.
For instance, Spirits Bay / Kapowairua is believed to be the departure point for the spirits of the dead, who are thought to travel to their ancestral home (Hawaiki) from a large pōhutukawa tree on the headland above the bay.
You’ll get to enjoy the crystal-clear waters of the area, which i reckon are some of the best beaches in New Zealand. It’s also a fun trail with plenty of ascents and descents which take you up from the beaches to epic lookout points along the way.
Although it’s quite challenging (and you’ll have a full pack carrying your tent!), it’s very much doable for beginner/intermediate multiday hikers.
A Brief Summary Of Te Paki Coastal Track
This is a 48 km one-way track that follows the coastline from Kapowairua (Spirits Bay) on the East Coast to Te Paki Stream (by the famous sand dunes) on the West Coast. The track is divided into 6 sections, but if you wish, you can continue further along 90 Mile Beach to Ahipara for another 2 hours.
These key sections are:
- Kapowairua (Spirits Bay) to Pandora: 9 km (5.5 miles), 3 hours
- Pandora to Tapotupotu Bay: 9 km (5.5 miles), 3 hours
- Tapotupotu Bay to Cape Reinga: 5 km (3 miles), 3 hours
- Cape Reinga to Te Werahi Beach: 2 km (1 mile), 45 minutes
- Te Werahi Beach to Twilight Beach: 7.25 km (4.5 miles), 3 hours
- Twilight Beach to Te Paki Stream: 11 km (7 miles), 4 ½ hours
It’s relatively easy, but don’t expect a flat or smooth hike. There are steep hills, stairs, and (some) sand dunes to climb. The track is mostly exposed to the sun, and you might experience windy and rainy moments. I recommend you prepare for the ever-changing weather conditions and keep track of the tide time before crossing the beaches and lagoons.
How To Get There
If you have your own car you can drive to the following trailheads:
- Kapowairua (Spirits Bay): turn off SH 1 at Waitiki Landing onto Te Hapua Road and then Spirits Bay Road.
- Te Paki Steam: follow SH 1 to Te Paki and then turn onto Te Paki Stream Road
Option 1: Car Swap
This is the best option if you’re taking more than 1 vehicle. Drop a car at the Te Paki Sand Dunes carpark (this is a pretty busy spot so reasonably safe), and then jump in your other vehicle to head over to Spirits Bay.
Option B: Use a shuttle service
There are a few operators in the region but they all operate on a ‘as needed’ basis – so you’ll want to arrange this ahead of time. Checkout the current commercial operators on the DOC website
This is what we did: We drove to Te Hapua, and left our cars securely at Te Hapua School for the duration of the hike. From there, our transport arrived to take us to the start of the track.
Hiking Te Paki Day 1: Kapowairua (Spirits Bay) to Pandora
The start of the hike lets you walk along Spirits Bay. You’ll cross the Waitahora Lagoon and enjoy views of the dunes and the ocean. You will reach the Pandora and Spirits Bay campsite. The former is pretty basic–non-flush toilet, shelter for cooking, no shower–and you don’t have to book in advance to stay here. But if you’re looking for a more comfortable stay, book the latter in advance.
Day 2: Pandora to Tapotupotu Bay
As you continue your hike from Pandora, you’ll climb up and down some hills and stairs and pass by lush vegetation, leading you toward Tapotupotu Bay. Once you’ve reached the bay, you can swim, fish, or kayak in the bay, or explore the nearby forest.
Day 3: Tapotupotu Bay to Cape Reinga to Te Werahi Beach
The trail past Cape Reinga to Te Werahi Beach is fairly simple. It leads to the northernmost part of the reserve, where you have to maneuver a couple of cliffs until you get to Sandy Bay.
Day 4: Te Werahi Beach to Twilight Beach to Te Paki Stream
This section completes your hike as you walk along sand dunes. You’ll follow the signs exiting Twilight Beach until you reach Te Oneroa-a-Tohe. After about 2 hours, you’ll arrive at the Te Paki Stream parking area. If you wish, you can walk another 2 hours to Ahipara.
How To Book
If you plan on staying in one of the campsites along the way, booking is essential. Except for the Pandora and Twilight campsites, which are free and operate on a first come first serve basis. The other campgrounds are booked on separate websites. For Spirits Bay, visit the Kapowairua website and, for Tapotupotu, head over to Ngati Kuri’s site. Each camping area costs $16 per adult per night and $8 per child per night. Once you’ve provided your details and made payment, you’ll receive a confirmation email.
What To Bring
- Tent
- Canned or dried food
- Sleeping bag
- Mat
- Tide charts
- Map
- Swimwear
- Insect repellent
- Sunscreen
- Hat
- Sunglasses
- Power bank
- Antihistamine/EpiPen
- Plenty of drinking water–bring twice as much if you’re hiking in summer because the water supplies may dry up
- Purification tablets
- Gas cooker
- And other (light) camping essentials
What To Watch Out For
Although the hike is relatively safe and enjoyable, here are some things I had to look out for.
Feral Dogs
There are wild dogs in the area, so you need to be careful and avoid them. In fact, this is one of the reasons why some of the sections have been closed off. I also recommend you not walk alone. If you happen to spot any, contact the Far North District Council dog control immediately.
Flooding along the lagoon entrance path
Heavy rainfall and high tides can often cause some sections–Waitahora Lagoon and the Te Paki Stream–to flood. I strongly recommend you check the tide times and the weather forecast before crossing them. If you’re experiencing a case of high tides, you can wait for the water level to drop or find a safer alternative route.
Car parking and break-ins
There are car parks at both ends of the track. But they are not secure, and there have been several reports of break-ins. I recommend you lock your car properly and not leave any valuables. Another viable option is to leave your vehicle at a nearby town or accommodation and take a bus to the track.
Kauri Die Back
Kauri trees are threatened by a fungal disease called kauri dieback, which slowly eats away at their roots. There are several signs along the way that help you stay on track to prevent the spread of the disease. Also, avoid stepping on the roots and soil, and make sure to clean your shoes and gear before and after entering the kauri areas.
Key Sites Along The Track
Spirits Bay
This beautiful and peaceful spot has crystal-clear blue waters and a long stretch of white sand. It’s sacred to the native Maori because it serves as part of the passageway for the deceased people’s spirits to enter their ancestral home. There are also several hidden caves for you to explore. Alternatively, you can snorkel, fish, or relax on the sandy beach.
Historical sites
Because the ancient Maori settlement was home to the Ngati Kuri tribe, it still contains remains of the fortified village. Exploring the area gives you a chance to learn about the history and culture of the native people.
Cape Reinga
This is the northernmost point, one of the most iconic and spiritual places. This is the main gateway that leads the Maori’s deceased to their ancestral home.
Te Paki Sand Dunes
These are the largest dunes in the area and make your hike a bit more pleasurable. You can enjoy the views of the ocean and the forest. And if you’re lucky enough, you might spot some wildlife.
Final Thoughts
The Te Paki Coastal Track is a spectacular hike with various landscapes and experiences. While you’re taking the time to enjoy the surrounding scenery, do your part to honor and respect the sacredness of the place. It still serves as a culturally and spiritually rich area for the natives. It’s an easy-to-moderate track, one that you’ll always remember fondly.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to hike the Te Paki Coastal Track?
It takes 3-4 days to hike the full track.
How much does it cost to hike the Te Paki Coastal Track?
Hiking the Te Paki Coastal Track is free but you’ll need to pay $16 per adult per night or $8 per child per night to stay at 2 of the campsites–Spirits Bay and Tapotupotu–along the track.
When is the best time to hike the Te Paki Coastal Track?
I recommend hiking the track when the weather is warmer and drier, which is from October to April. The daylight hours are longer too.
