When hiking the Kumano Kodo, most hikers opt for the comfort of traditional guesthouses along the way. But if you’re on a budget and want to immerse yourself in nature, camping in designated areas might appeal to you.

We were quite last minute in our Kumano booking, so almost went down the campsite route ourselves. Luckily we got a last minute (by Kumano Travel’s standards) reservation so ended up in guesthouses.

Be warned, though, camping doesn’t offer the same level of comfort as guesthouses. But waking up to the beauty of the outdoors is worth every minute.

A quick breakdown of the perks of camping:

Cost-effective: Campsites cost between ¥1,600 and ¥2,000 per night, while guest houses range from ¥12,000 to ¥23,000.
Flexibility: Adjust your itinerary as you go without being tied to reservations.
Nature: Wake up to the beauty of the trail.

Read on to decide if sleeping under the stars is for you.

Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Route Trail Map Mockup 4

Kumano Kodo Trail Map

Celbrate your Kumano Kodo experience with this minimalist trail map of the Nakahechi Route (designed by me!) – showing all the key locations, start and end points, and trail stats at the bottom 🙂

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Table of Contents

Campsites Along Kumano Kodo

There are several campsites scattered along the route. These include:

Chikatsuyu Area

Iris Park Auto Camp

This spacious campground offers multiple campsites and bungalows for rent.

Amenities include:

Campsite fees: Adults (¥2,300), Children (¥1,800) (tent not included)
Bungalows: Starting from ¥10,000
Onsen bath
Toilets (no showers)
Barbecue pits
Municipal swimming pool (separate fee)
Washing machine (separate fee)
Limited Wi-Fi access

Minshuku 3rd Place Kumano Kodo

This traditional inn allows camping on their land with your own tent. They also offer a small cabin-like lodge for rent. Booking is required for both options.

Hongu Area

Tanabe Kawayu Campground

This relaxing campground nestled in a beautiful mountain landscape offers two campsites and auto-camping options.

You can find:

Campsite fees: Adults (¥1,200), Children (¥700)
Public onsen (separate fee)
Cooking area
Vending machines
Limited Wi-Fi access

Otonashi-no-Sato

This option offers campsites, auto campsites, and cottages for rent.

Amenities include:

Campsite fees:

Walk-in (with tent): ¥1,400
Bicycle: ¥1,750
Car: Driver (¥2,450), Adult passengers (¥1,550), Children (¥900) (prices vary depending on day and season)

Autocamp fees: Vary depending on day and season (includes entrance fee)

Cottage fees: Vary depending on size and season (plus per person fee)

Facilities:

Showers and toilets
Barbecue pits and food preparation area
Emergency weather shelter
Variety of equipment for rent (barbecue grills, stoves, etc.)
Limited Wi-Fi access

Koguchi Area

Koguchi Campground

This convenient campground offers campsites in two sizes and auto-camping options. It’s a good base for exploring the nearby Kogumotori-goe and Ogumotori-goe trails.

Amenities include:

Campsite fees: Adults (¥1,600 or ¥2,400 depending on size)
Autocamp fees
Showers and toilets
Cooking area
Playground
Wi-Fi access

Camping vs. Guesthouses

As mentioned earlier, camping is more cost-effective and perfect for adventurous hikers who crave a connection with nature. Guesthouses (ryokans or minshukus) provide a comfortable stay rooted in cultural immersion. Here are the pros and cons of each.

Camping

Advantages

Budget-Friendly
Flexibility: You aren’t tied to pre-booked accommodations and can adjust your itinerary as you go.
Connection to Nature

Disadvantages

Carrying the Load: Unlike staying in guesthouses, I didn’t have the privilege of luggage transfer services from one stay to the next. I was responsible for carrying all my camping gear. After a couple of hiking days, this does add weight to your backpack.
Limited Amenities: Most campsites have basic amenities like toilets and showers.
Weather Dependence: From rain to scorching heat and everything in between, you’re likely to experience sudden weather changes. Rain can make camping uncomfortable, and some campsites have limited shelter options.
Preparation: More planning and packing are required.

Guesthouses

Advantages

Cultural Experience: These traditional guesthouses provide a window into Japanese culture. Expect tatami-mat rooms, futon bedding, and delicious home-cooked meals.
Convenience and Comfort: You’ll experience a comfortable respite after a day’s hike. Many also offer amenities like on-site onsens.
Local Knowledge: The owners are often local experts who can share insights about the surrounding areas, enriching your pilgrimage experience.
Social Interaction: I got to meet fellow travelers and share stories over a traditional breakfast.

Disadvantages

Cost: Guesthouses, particularly ryokans, can be more expensive.
Limited Flexibility: Set meal times and check-in/check-out procedures.

Price of Campsites vs Guesthouse

Guesthouses cost between ¥12,000 and around ¥23,000 per night. Expect to pay between ¥1,600 and ¥2,000 per night for campsites.

Rules of Camping in Japan

Designated Campsites Only: Respect the sacred nature of the trail and surrounding environment. Camp only in designated campsites.

Leave No Trace: Pack out all your trash and minimize your impact on the environment.

Fire Regulations: Open fires are forbidden in many areas. Check if the campsite offers designated areas for using camp stoves or barbecues.

When to Camp Kumano Kodo

Spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November) offer pleasant temperatures and minimal crowds. But there’s a potential for rain during these shoulder seasons, especially around June.

July to August is hot and humid. My advice? Try to avoid hiking ‌during these months. Unless you don’t mind the scorching heat that comes with it.

What to Pack

Tent: Lightweight and waterproof.
Sleeping Bag
Sleeping Pad
Cooking Gear: Portable stove, cookware, and utensils.
Food and Water: Lightweight, non-perishable food, and a water filter or purification tablets.
Clothing: Layered clothing for varying weather conditions.
Rain Gear: Waterproof jacket and pants.
Footwear: Sturdy, comfortable hiking boots.
Navigation: Maps, compass, and GPS device.
First Aid Kit: Basic medical supplies.
Personal Items: Toiletries, sunscreen, insect repellent.
Trash Bags: For packing out all waste.

Camping Tips

To ensure a smooth experience, here are some key tips to keep in mind:

Always check the weather forecast and be prepared for sudden changes.
Have a clear plan of your route and the campsites you’ll be using.
Carry enough water and know where to refill along the route.
Follow all local customs and rules, especially in sacred areas.
Let someone know your itinerary and expected return time.

I can’t stress this enough! Familiarize yourself with the amenities offered at each campsite. Consider vital aspects that would make for a somewhat comfortable camping experience like showers and toilets, and a cooking area. This helps you plan accordingly.

Kumano Kodo Travel Planning Cheatsheet

🚑 Should I buy travel insurance for Japan?

100% YES! — Japan has “free” healthcare but it’s only for citizens! Tourists need travel insurance in case anything happens on your visit. Also be aware many policies won’t cover hiking as it’s a high risk activity! (that’s right, check the t&c’s on your complimentary credit card insurance)

I highly recommend World Nomads as you can get specific add-ons for the crazy activities you’re doing – and starts at just $7 a day!

🏩 What’s the best way to book my Kumano Kodo accommodation?

Your only realy two options here are Kumano Travel and Booking.com. Its a complicated process so I wrote this guide here on the best kumano kodo accomodation options

If you don’t want to figure it all out (it’s meant to be a holiday after all) you can book a package tour. Here are my recommendations for both guided and self-guided.

💸How do you pay for things in Japan?

Japan may have flying robots.. but they also still use cash! So you’ll want to get some folding tender out from an ATM when you land. EFTPOS / Debit / Credit Card and Paywave (contactless payments) is common at bigger businesses but small bars, and street vendors want cash.

I personally use a Wise debit card for all my international money needs as they only convert the funds when you make payment, plus they offer a much better spread (margin on the true exhange rate) than the banks do. They work in all Japanese ATMs I tried.

🚙 Do you need to rent a car in Japan?

I wouldn’t reccommend it — Transport in Japan is expensive whatever mode you chose, but fortunalty the publc transport system is out of this world in terms of both freqency and coverage. If you are heading to a lot of off the beaten track places, then you may want a rental. I use Discover Cars to find the cheapest rates on rentals cars and remember you can save money if you avoid picking up at the airport.

🚆 What about the JR Rail Pass?

We didn’t – but it depends on the length and itenirary of your trip. The JR Pass is expensive (and just went up in price again!) and if you’re walking the Kumano Kodo you wont need it for probably 6 days straight anyway.

Do the math, but in most cases buying the train fares you need, when you need it will work out more afforably overall – and give you more flexibility (as the JR Pass doesn’t cover all lines)

📲 How do I get internet/data/wifi in Japan and on the trail?

This one needs a whole nother article, but the short version is;

local SIM cards are cheaper but generally require a fixed term contract (not practical for people visiting)
Tourist ‘short stay’ SIMs are a bit more expensive but will give you plenty of data while your visiting and are best for solo travelllers.
If you’re travelling as 2 or more people, renting a pocket WIFI unit from the airport is the most economical option – Works out cheaper than getting two tourists sims
Use a travel eSIM like Saily or Airalo. This works from the moment you land is is SOOOOO much easier than trying to pick a data pack in japanese. It also gives you connectivity across neighbouring asian countries if you buy a regional sim! TIP: I used to use Airalo but now find Saily a much better product – you can get 5% off with code SPECIAL5

✈️ What’s the best site to buy flights to Japan?

For finding cheap flights, I recommend Skyscanner. Once you find the flight you’re looking for, I’d then suggest booking directly with the carrier (even if it costs a few $$ more than with one of the agreggators/agencies).

💧Can you drink the water on the Kumano Kodo?

Yes — Japan is very clean. In all townships you’ll pass through and stay along the Kumano Kodo the tap water is drinkable. If you want to drink water from the rivers and streams you generally can but should do so at your own risk. ALWAYS follow best practice and drink from fast flowing water as far up stream as possible. I drank the water and was fine.. but i’d generally recommend a Brita Water Bottle for rehydrating on the trail safely.

🎫 Do I need a visa for Japan?

Likely Not — Japan now recognises 70 countries as ‘visa exempt’ for short term stay. So if you’re a US, UK, NZ, AU and EU passport holder you don’t need a Japansese visas. However, some other countries do (check here!). And if you plan to stay for more than 90 days (an average tourist visa length), you will need to look into the Japanese working holiday visa scheme, or the new Digital Nomad visa scheme.